Birding in the tropics is tough.  You hear a lot, but don't always see a lot, and you spend a lot of time craning your neck as you gaze into the treetops.  An accomplished guide like Gilberto adds immeasurably to the experience.  He was quiet, polite, flirtatious, and eager to share his knowledge.  He knew the birds' calls, their habits, and where they were nesting.  He whispered and whistled back to them. He was phenomenal.  He was also responsible for maintaining some of the forest trails for the lodge, and he even went birding on his days off!  Thanks to him, we saw over 100 species in three days.   Here's our list

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